5 days in Paris

Morning

Toy sailboats in the Jardin du Luxembourg

Shake off the journey in Paris's best family garden: rent a vintage wooden sailboat at the Grand Bassin and let the kids push it across the pond with a stick. The big fenced playground near Rue Guynemer is excellent, and on Wednesdays and weekends the Théâtre du Luxembourg puts on classic Guignol puppet shows.

Afternoon

Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle

Walk 15 minutes to see the freshly restored Notre-Dame, free to enter; reserve a free timed slot on the official site to skip the queue. Then pop into nearby Sainte-Chapelle, where 15 soaring stained-glass windows glow brightest on a sunny afternoon; under-18s enter free.

Evening

Stroll Île Saint-Louis and early brasserie dinner

Cross Pont Saint-Louis to the quiet island, browse the little shops on Rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Île and watch street musicians on the bridge. Have an early dinner at Brasserie de l'Isle Saint-Louis on the quay, an old-school spot with sauerkraut, omelettes and croque-monsieur that suits all ages.

Morning

Louvre highlights with a timed ticket

Arrive for the 9:00 opening with pre-booked timed tickets and enter via the Carrousel du Louvre entrance to avoid the pyramid queue. Keep it to two hours: Mona Lisa first, then the Winged Victory, the Egyptian antiquities with mummies and the Napoleon III apartments, which kids find dazzling. Note the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays and under-18s enter free.

Afternoon

Tuileries playground, carousel and Monet's water lilies

Let the kids burn energy at the Tuileries playground and on the old carousel, with trampolines along Rue de Rivoli in summer. Then spend 45 calm minutes in the Musée de l'Orangerie at the far end of the garden, where Monet's oval Water Lilies rooms are the perfect size for young attention spans (closed Tuesdays, under-18s free).

Evening

Galeries Lafayette rooftop and Bouillon Chartier

Ride up to the free rooftop terrace of Galeries Lafayette Haussmann for a view over the Opéra Garnier to the Eiffel Tower, and peek at the stained-glass dome inside. Walk ten minutes to Bouillon Chartier on Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, a 1896 dining hall with bargain classics; it takes no reservations, so arrive before 18:30.

Morning

Eiffel Tower summit by lift

Book the earliest timed lift tickets to the summit, released about 60 days ahead, and be at security 15 minutes early. Head straight to the top while queues are short, then spend time on the second floor and the glass floor on the first level on the way down. Youth tickets (12 to 24) are half price and children 4 to 11 pay even less.

Afternoon

Rue Cler picnic and the Aquarium de Paris

Gather a picnic from the bakeries, cheese shops and fruit stalls of Rue Cler and eat on the Champ de Mars lawns. Cross Pont d'Iéna to the Aquarium de Paris under the Trocadéro gardens, a manageable two-hour visit with sharks, a touch pool and jellyfish, then catch the classic Eiffel photo from the Trocadéro terrace.

Evening

Sunset Seine cruise from the Eiffel Tower

Board a one-hour sightseeing cruise at Port de la Bourdonnais right beneath the tower, gliding past the Louvre, Notre-Dame and the Musée d'Orsay with commentary. Time it to finish after dark so you see the tower sparkle for five minutes on the hour.

Morning

Palace of Versailles with skip-the-line entry

Arrive for the 9:00 opening with a timed Passport ticket to see the Hall of Mirrors and the King's and Queen's apartments before the tour-group rush. Pick up the free kids' audio guide; under-18s enter free. The palace is closed on Mondays and busiest on Tuesdays and Sundays.

Afternoon

Gardens, rowing boat and the Queen's Hamlet

Rent a rowing boat on the Grand Canal (about 20 EUR for 30 minutes per boat), then ride the little train or rent bikes to Marie-Antoinette's Hamlet, a storybook farm village with real animals. On Musical Fountains days (weekends April to October plus some Tuesdays) the fountains dance to Baroque music.

Evening

Steak-frites at Le Relais de l'Entrecôte

Back in Paris, head to Le Relais de l'Entrecôte on Rue Saint-Benoît, where there is only one main course: steak with its famous secret sauce and unlimited fries, followed by profiteroles. No bookings, so queue around 18:45; it is fast, fun and very kid-pleasing.

Morning

Sacré-Cœur by funicular and Place du Tertre

Ride the Montmartre funicular (a single metro ticket) to Sacré-Cœur for a sweeping view over Paris, then wander the cobbled lanes to Place du Tertre to watch portrait artists at work. Find the Wall of Love in Square Jehan Rictus and ride the carousel at the foot of the steps; go before 10:00 to beat the crowds and ignore anyone offering string bracelets.

Afternoon

Place des Vosges and Musée Carnavalet

Take the metro to the Marais and let the kids play on the lawns of Place des Vosges, Paris's oldest planned square. Then visit the free Musée Carnavalet, the city history museum with old shop signs, a reconstructed café and Revolution relics (closed Mondays).

Evening

Farewell crêpes at Breizh Café

End with buckwheat galettes and sweet crêpes at Breizh Café on Rue Vieille du Temple, the city's top Breton crêperie, washed down with apple juice or artisanal cider. Reserve ahead and choose the salted butter caramel crêpe for dessert.