4 days in Istanbul

Morning

Hagia Sophia at opening

Arrive by 9am to see the 6th-century dome and the Deesis mosaic in the upper gallery before tour groups pack the visitor route. Foreign visitors use the gallery route. Women need a headscarf, and everyone needs covered knees and shoulders. The site closes to visitors at prayer times, so check the schedule.

Afternoon

Basilica Cistern and Blue Mosque

Descend into the Basilica Cistern, the 6th-century underground reservoir with its 336 columns and two Medusa heads. Then cross the Hippodrome to the Blue Mosque, which is free but closes to visitors for about 90 minutes around each prayer. Visit late in the afternoon to see its Iznik tiles in softer light.

Evening

Whirling Dervish ceremony

Watch a sema ceremony at the Hodjapasha Cultural Centre, a restored 15th-century hammam a short walk from Sultanahmet. It runs about an hour, which is ideal on a jet-lagged first night. Book ahead and arrive 20 minutes early for better seats.

Morning

Topkapi Palace and Harem

Spend 3 hours in the Ottoman sultans' palace, taking in the Imperial Treasury with the Spoonmaker's Diamond, the Sacred Relics and the tiled Harem, which is well worth the add-on. It is closed on Tuesdays, so plan around that and be at the gate before 9am. Finish at the Fourth Courtyard terraces for Bosphorus views.

Afternoon

Grand Bazaar shopping

Enter by the Nuruosmaniye Gate and work through the 4,000 shops, aiming for the quieter hans such as Zincirli Han for jewellery. Try Ottoman-motif textiles at Dervis, pestemal towels at Abdulla, and lamps and ceramics around Yaglikcilar Caddesi. Haggle politely and expect to settle around 20-30 percent below the first price. It is closed on Sundays.

Evening

Suleymaniye Mosque at golden hour

Walk uphill to Sinan's masterpiece and stay in the rear garden at sunset, when it gives one of the best views over the Golden Horn. Then have dinner on Prof. Siddik Sami Onar Caddesi, the old bean-house street right beside the mosque.

Morning

Spice Bazaar and Eminonu food stops

Browse the 1664 Spice Bazaar for saffron, sumac, lokum from Hafiz Mustafa and dried fruit, then visit the cheaper side streets of Hasircilar Caddesi where locals shop. Queue at Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi for freshly ground Turkish coffee to take home. Pop into the tiny Rustem Pasa Mosque next door for some of the finest Iznik tiles in the city.

Afternoon

Bosphorus cruise

Cruise between Europe and Asia past Dolmabahce, Ortakoy Mosque, the Rumeli Fortress and waterfront yali mansions. A 2-hour guided cruise from Eminonu gives you commentary. The public Sehir Hatlari short tour is a budget alternative at a few euros.

Evening

Hammam then dinner in Karakoy

Book a scrub and foam massage at Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami, a beautifully restored 1580 Sinan bathhouse in Tophane. It has separate sessions for men and women, so check the timings. Afterwards, walk 5 minutes for dinner in Karakoy and baklava at Karakoy Gulluoglu.

Morning

Dolmabahce Palace

See the gilded 19th-century palace where Ataturk died, including its 4.5-tonne Bohemian crystal chandelier in the Ceremonial Hall. Visits are by timed guided route only. It is closed on Mondays, so arrive at opening to avoid long waits.

Afternoon

Kadikoy market food walk

Ferry 20 minutes from Besiktas to Kadikoy and graze the Guneslibahce and Serasker streets for pickles, midye dolma, Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir lokum and Baylan's kup griye dessert. Dip into the vintage and record shops on Tellalzade Sokak for less touristy shopping.

Evening

Moda sunset and farewell dinner

Stroll down Moda Caddesi to the seafront park for sunset over the historic peninsula across the water. Then have a farewell dinner at Ciya Sofrasi back in the market. If you have an evening flight, the Havabus to Sabiha Gokcen leaves from Kadikoy.